Way out West

R seems to have found a weather forecasting site that is even less accurate than the Beeb. The Met Office are predicting thunder and lightning all day today although when we open the curtains the sky is blue and the clouds are white and fluffy rather than yesterday's leaden grey. Today is our last with the car, although we have the option to rent again later in our stay if we wish. 

After sampling the joys of east, north and south coasts today's outing is aimed at Ponta da Pargo, the extreme western tip of the island. On our previous visit to Madeira we had found a map and guide for birders visiting this part of the island. The bookshop owner regretted that she was not aware of any other ornithological publications relating to Madeira.

Our route takes us west along the Via Rapida to Ribeira Brava and then by the Via Expressa that ploughs a mainly subterranean furrow parallel to the coast. Not very scenic but a speedy way to get about when the traffic is not too heavy.  From time to time we emerge into bright sunlight in order to negotiate a roundabout. We find our way to Ponta do Pargo lighthouse without any problems. The sun is still shining but the wind is definitely fresh. We don boots, fleeces  and jackets before peering over the cliff. The birdwatching is off to a good start as we spot a kestrel swooping below us, looking for lunch on the cliffs. Sadly it was moving too fast for photos. 

Our walk takes us roughly along the cliff top to a viewpoint about a kilometre to the south. We have barely started when we see a couple of Atlantic Canaries in the bushes. The landscape is more grassy than anywhere else we have seen on the island and there is plenty of birdsong to be heard. We can now recognise Berthelot's Pipit without resorting to the book and there are a good few around here.

Madeira is a wintering place for swallows and they are out enjoying the sunshine, doing acrobatics above and below the cliff edge.

The miradouro (lookout point) gives great views out to sea, along the coast and down the cliffs which are around 250 metres high at this point. Careful watching allows us to spot a kestrel perched on a rock watching the grassland at the base of the cliff. The bird is probably 150 metres below our viewing point.

Delighted with our walk, the weather and the birding we retire to the nearby cafe for elevenses. The place is spotless, the service excellent, the prices very reasonable and the lemon drizzle cake to die for. As a bonus we get a quick sighting of a sparrowhawk hunting over the grassland.

As we are leaving an almost perfect rainbow appears to the north, the direction in which we are heading. Inevitably the rainbow is followed by a bit of light rain, then a short burst of very wet stuff. We march smartly back to the car and stuff our wet outer clothes into the boot (trunk). A quick flick through the guide book suggests that the town of Calheta is the only other place on the west coast worth visiting. We drive the 15km south and leave the rain behind.

Calheta has a very tidy promenade with parking, picnic tables and nicely trimmed bushes which are ideal for spreading rain jackets to dry in the sun. While we eat our picnic lunch the jackets dry out thoroughly and we even feel the need to don sunblock. The wall and vegetation behind the promenade are alive with lizards.

After lunch we take a stroll along the almost deserted promenade until a few spots of rain start to fall. Luckily Calheta provides a wet weather activity in the shape of the Madeira Contemporary Art Museum, housed on a group of rather sinister looking buildings perched on the cliff above the town. We drive up there as the rain continues to fall and are greeted by a message on the door.

It turned out to be more like 10 minutes and the outer entrance provided shelter from the rain. When the door opened we were asked to show our most recent Covid Test Certificates, were relieved of €4 each and briefed on the layout of the place. Basically it consists of three levels and various rooms and spaces on each of these. All levels are below the entrance. Some of the spaces are huge and others rather small.

There isn't too much by way of pictures hanging on walls but at least it gave us an hour out of the rain. When we exited the rain had stopped so a good result all round. Back in Funchal we used the car to bring home a weighty supermarket shop before emptying out our possessions and returning the car to the rental compound, just opposite the hotel.