Radinmad

Today we opt to revisit Camara do Lobos. No need to make sandwiches today as we are planning on lunch out. The sun is shining, although it is not as warm as it was yesterday. We stroll down to the marina and catch the Rodoeste bus westwards. Just like the last time the ticket inspector gets on part way and clips our tickets. Alighting at Camara do Lobos we have a small list of things to do. R wants to give Winston a few tips on his painting. After this piece of nonsense we enjoy a coffee in the square before proceeding up the hill to the premises of Henriques & Henriques, Madeira wine producers. As it is a weekday they are receiving visitors. We are issued with four samples each, stating with dry, then medium dry, then medium sweet and finally sweet. All are acceptable but we vote the medium dry our favourite. Once again we are very surprised that we are the only visitors. Another venue that opens only on weekdays is the printing muse...

Today is earmarked for another levada walk. Do days have ears? We get up around 08.00 and look out to see quite a lot of cloud but not of a threatening type. Manufacturing lunch is now down to a fine art. Split a Bolo do Caco, spread the insides with mayonnaise, layer on sliced cheese, chorizo, paper thin ham, cucumber and, if you are fussy, sliced tomato and you have a masterpiece. Our bus up the hill is the previously enjoyed number 29, departing from behind the electricity museum at 10.45.  There is plenty of time to stroll through the town, enjoy a coffee outside the the market, and get ourselves in the queue at the bus stop. A German chap seeks advice on  levada walks. Does D know where to go? "I hope so" he responds. The German chap recoils visibly. The bus is pretty full but we get a pair of seats towards the back of the bus. We have a splendid ascent, stopping from time to time to disgorge locals on unpromising hillsides. We know where we wish to alight bu...

You may well find today's blog to be a bit brief, and indeed you may be grateful for that, but the fact is that we didn't do very much or take many photos. The day gets off to a rather lazy start when we sleep in until 08.45. The curtains in our room are very effective. Wordle doesn't go too well as it is a word that has one letter more in British English. We still have the car and want to see the highly recommended view from Pico do Barcelos. This turns out to be much like other views from up in the hills to the north. It is noticably hazier today but warm. We spent the next few hours visiting various retail boxes and getting lost driving between them. The highlight of the day was supper. In our first week we had bought a couple of frozen meals as a standby and decided it was time to use these. As we have uttterly failed to comprehend the combination microwave/oven/grill our ever resourceful chef improvises a steamer. D's contributio...

Today is forecast to be sunny and the view through the curtains confirms this. We get things off to a cracking start with a hipster breakfast of avocado, toast and poached egg. The two avocados that we bought at the market on Saturday have been delicious and cost about 42 pence each. D is now getting to grips with navigating in Funchal and with only one slight divergence from plan we are on the main road up the mountains to Monte and then on beyond towards Ribeiro Frio. As we climb we see several kestrels hovering, searching for breakfast.  Our route breaks new ground when we turn off the main drag at the top of the pass and take the side road to the top of Madeira's third highest mountain. The road is not too bad, probably because the Portuguese military have a radar station up here, but somebody needs to do something about the parking. We find a spot on the radar station's driveway and walk up to the top. It is currently rated as 1818 metres, 5964 feet...

Today we pick up a car again, once more a diesel Renault Clio but this time white rather than silver. Our destination for the day is the Paul da Serra, an uninhabited upland area in the western central area of the island. We start out on the Via Rapida, heading west to Ribeira Brava, before turning north up a steep sided valley. The road has been upgraded to Via Espresso status, not that we benefit that much from this as we turn off to take the old route over the mountain pass that the new road avoids via a 3km tunnel. The road is quite steep but not too narrow or winding, with plenty of parking places by viewpoints. At the top of the climb there is a tourist trap cafe/souvenir shop that has been occupied by a German coach party. This is a spot where you can see the sea on the south side of the island from one side of the road and the north coast from the other side of said road. The road west from here goes past a rather forbidding sign but we have invested a f...

We have received a request for less trudging. As we always we aim to please and have investigated alternatives. This one has been rejected on economic grounds. Even Chennai auto drivers would not have the brass neck to ask for over 4,000 rupees for an hour. It is another sunny day although there is a bank of clouds off to the east. We have learned that things start slowly on Sundays here so we have a leisurely breakfast before setting out for the beach. Having got her toes wet last weekend R is in the mood for a swim. It is pleasantly warm with a breeze that gains strength as the day goes on. The seafront walk out by the Lido looks much more welcoming today although there is a bit of a swell running. We see evidence of the storm damage that occurred during our first week on the island. We continue round the headland and down a set of steps to the tunnel through the cliffs that links to Formosa Beach. It is closed for repairs and we had failed to spot...

A few days ago it was announced that weekly Covid testing for people without symptoms would end here on Madeira. We have brought some self test kits with us from home so we do one of these each and get negative results. The policy change has played havoc with our Saturday routine and it is difficult to get going this morning.  Our digs are quite well equipped and mean that we can enjoy freshly squeezed orange juice for breakfast although clearing up after this only delays things further. Eventually we get under way , starting with our weekly trip to the service wash. Despite delivering our grungies an hour later than previously, we are told that they will be ready an hour earlier this week. Today is marked down for a visit to D'Oliveira's, one of the island's Madeira wine producers. It is an easy, mainly level stroll across the city centre. Once again the sun is shining and it is pleasantly warm for unhurried strolling. We are made most welcome when ...