Kilometre Zero

Today we pick up a car again, once more a diesel Renault Clio but this time white rather than silver. Our destination for the day is the Paul da Serra, an uninhabited upland area in the western central area of the island. We start out on the Via Rapida, heading west to Ribeira Brava, before turning north up a steep sided valley. The road has been upgraded to Via Espresso status, not that we benefit that much from this as we turn off to take the old route over the mountain pass that the new road avoids via a 3km tunnel.
The road is quite steep but not too narrow or winding, with plenty of parking places by viewpoints. At the top of the climb there is a tourist trap cafe/souvenir shop that has been occupied by a German coach party. This is a spot where you can see the sea on the south side of the island from one side of the road and the north coast from the other side of said road.
The road west from here goes past a rather forbidding sign but we have invested a few quid in an annual all risks car hire policy so we take our chances.
Our route takes us out into a landscape totally different to the rest of the island. There are few trees but plenty of gorse bushes. The huge wind turbines conjure up thoughts of Don Quixote.
The weather up here is splendid although there is cloud down below in every direction. There are plenty of signposted walks up here and we opt to take one of them. It starts as a stroll but soon becomes a downhill scramble until we reach the main path which more or less contours round the mountain. 
After a while we arrive at the point where the Levada da Serra actually starts. From here the path gets much more pedestrian friendly although there are some wet bits.
There are neither lizards nor dragonflies to entertain us on this route but there are interesting plants.
Sadly our descent has brought us down into the clouds and there are no views to be had. When we get to a really wet bit we decide that we have had enough cloud walking and turn back. The scramble up is a bit easier than the descent and there are some picnic benches near where we parked the car. We are joined for our late lunch by a couple of Madeiran chaffinches.
After lunch we continue westwards. The road follows a ridge line and without the clouds there would be spectacular views. The road has a few enormous potholes and plenty of free range cows but by Madeiran standards is quite an easy drive. Somehow we go from above the clouds to below them but barely through them. 
As we are so close to the west end of the island we decide to visit the Tea House at Ponta do Pargo. Their lemon cake was brilliant two weeks ago and still is.
We watch kestrels hunting on the cliffs before heading for home. Supper tonight is Rosena's egg & spuds followed by custard apple. Divine.


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